Proper Scooter maintenance is crucial to getting the most out of your scooter. You should always consult your owner’s manual as the following tips may vary from scooter to scooter. If the information presented here contradicts your owner manual, then you should trust the manufacture and abide by their specs. Furthermore we remind scooter enthusiasts to follow safe riding practices and ALWAYS wear protective gear.
OIL CHANGES:
Our Manufacturers recommend Initial oil change should be performed when you receive the vehicle then after the first Hour of operation. We recomend a 4 stroke motor oil 10-40 in the winter and 20-50 in the summer months. Oil changes should the be performed after 10 hours and then every 6 months. It would not hurt the motor if it being used every day to change the oil every month. frequent oil changes are well worth it and can increase the life of your motor
SPARK PLUG:
The spark plug is a crucial and vulnerable part on your engine. For your 110cc to 150 cc Scooter or Atv we recommend a NGK C7HSA Spark Plug. Your spark plug is located on the top of the engine under the protective rubber boot. Your scooter comes with a tool kit containing a spark plug wrench for easy removal. The spark plug must be clean, and must be replaced promptly when signs of wear begin to show. The condition of the spark plug can tell you a lot about how your motor is running. If the electrode is white, that can be a sign that your scooter is running too hot. This can be a result of either running too lean, or that the fuel and air mixture is too lean. If you are running your scooter to rich then your spark plug may be black, covered with gas, oil, or carbon. Another common problem is that the spark plug gets clogged up with carbon and/or oil and “fouls”. This should be checked by assuring the electrode has a clean gap of .023 in.Exhaust:There are 2 nuts that hold the exaust pipe to the motor. When your bike is new the gasket between the motor and the exhaust pipe flexes and shrinks with expansion and contraction of the motors heating and cooling. You should check these nuts regularly. If your bike becomes louder chances are that you have probably lost your nuts and your exhaust manifold gasket.
AIR FILTER:
The air filter is used to clean the air going into the engine. Periodic cleaning of this filter is recommended to protect your gas scooter engine against the damaging effects of dirt and abrasive particulates. Your air filter can be located on the front of the engine and the protective cover can be removed with one screw. When the protective cover is removed the air filter is revealed. You can also see the small workings of the choke and butterfly valve. The filter should be free from dirt and grease and appear clean like the one shown on the right. If there are contaminants on the filter it can be cleaned in a container of gasoline. Allow the filter to dry before re-installing it into your gas scooter.
CHAIN:
The chain on your scooter should be lubricated before every ride. The chain should also be checked for tightness on a regular basis. If the chain is too loose a popping sound can be heard and the scooter will jerk under acceleration, or the chain will just jump off altogether. If the chain is too tight it will be noisy and bind, this can be felt by pushing the scooter with the motor off.
THROTTLE:
There are two main types of scooter throttles. One is a twist type, and the other is a hand throttle. Although the throttles are different in operation, they are essentially mechanically the same. When the rider applies the throttle, a cable carries this motion down to the engine. For continued smooth operation it is important to keep this cable clean and free of obstructions. Should the throttle begin to feel loose and sloppy, the slack can be adjusted on the cable at the handlebars. Simply loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable tension via the adjustment screw. Once the desired tension is achieved retighten the lock nut.
BRAKES:
The easiest way to adjust your brakes is on the handbrake itself. This adjustment has two simple steps. To change the tension on the cable merely back off the locking nut and screw the adjustment screw in or out accordingly. Once the desired tension is achieved re-tighten the locking nut. The rear brake is easier to adjust by turning the rear adjuster nut clockwise until desired tightness is acheived.
CARBURETOR:
The carburetor has many adjustments on it and it is recommended that these adjustments to be made by experienced persons only, however we will point out the major points. The carburetor is responsible for pumping the fuel and mixing it with the air at a precise measurement. The carburetor does this with very small diaphragms, orifices and ports, which are easily clogged by contaminants. This is why it is extremely important that you use only clean ethanol free fuel in your gas scooter and winterize properly.
PRIMER:
When the scooter is brand new, ran out of gas, has been sitting for a long period or is very cold, it may be necessary to prime the carburetor before attempting to start it. On scooters you must turn the scooter to the off position and then kick start the scooter 15 to 20 times. Then turn the key to the on position and then either use the electric start or kick start the scooter. On primer units with the primer pump bowl located at the bottom of the carburetor. Simply press and release this pump several times until gas can be seen flowing through the clear gas return line to the fuel tank. This will help start the scooter under the aforementioned conditions, however if this is done once the scooter has warmed up it may induce flooding.
IDLE:
If the scooter will not idle or idles too fast, an adjustment screw is provided next to the carburator. it is located on the throttle side of the carburator. Turning this screw clockwise will increase the idle speed. When idling the rear tire should not turn when the scooter is on the center stand after the electric choke has turned off. Turning the screw counterclockwise will decrease the idle speed. An idle speed that is too fast can be dangerous.
WINTERIZATION:
Running stabilizer in your fuel beginning in September or earlier will help keep your fuel from separating when it gets cold and will cause less carburetor restriction issues. There is a fuel drain on the left side(kick start side) by unscrewing this drain it will empty the fuel from the fuel pump through the carburetor. It will not empty the gas tank just the fuel in the lines going to the carburetor. If you are not going to start the vehicle during the winter months it is recommended that the battery be removed. When removing the battery remember to place the battery on a float charger. This will maintain the battery by draining and refilling the battery as necessary.
FUEL:
Fuel sources and fuel types have played a major part in the functionality of the scooters performance over the past few years. The ethenaol fuel is primarily made of alcohol, which evaporates more quickly than the non-ethanol products. We would ask you to consider using the non-ethanol product as we have found that the alcohol drys the fuel lines and makes them brittle and then can potentially clog the main jet. The main jet clogging is the main issue for most non running issues.